If a watch was ever worked on by a watchmaker, it was polished.
On the internet, a lot of people say that their watch was “never polished”. But at the same time, there are things you can do to protect yourself.
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If someone tries to tell you that certain watches were only made in certain times and between certain serial numbers… well, as mentioned that is not the way Rolex worked. In fact, I often say that I’ve made a very good living buying Rolexes from dealers and collectors that other people have deemed to be fake! As a result, there are a lot of misconceptions as to what is genuine Rolex and what is not genuine Rolex. So you’ll see Rolexes that are 100% genuine that are made out of sterling silver, gold filled – all kinds of oddities. They don’t understand that Rolex of Canada was a completely separate entity and they were allowed leeway to do pretty much whatever they wanted to. People don’t understand that Rolex made bracelets in Argentina, Mexico and the USA. They used every dial, case and movement they could. They crossed out reference numbers and put new ones on the same watch. It wasn’t the same at all! That means there are many different dial configurations, many different case configurations, there are all kinds of disparities, variants and mash-ups that to the modern collector would seem aberrant.
Their quality control in the ‘50s, ’60s, ’70s and even ’80s was not the perfection that we expect of Rolex today. Because the truth is that Rolex used to do a lot of weird things. The number one phrase I hear that makes my hair stand on end is when experts say: “Rolex never did that”. And I know this seems like an opaque answer, but the truth is that whoever wields the most power in the conversation and controls the narrative is the guy who’s going to win. When a really, really good quality unusual dial shows up, there will be debate among the experts or the buyer and the seller, as to its originality. I tell that story to demonstrate that establishing the originality of a Rolex isn’t always easy because there are so many different variants out there.
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Armed with these two powerful verbal blessings, I resold the watch for $125,000 to another collector, who immediately took the rare dial off it, putting it in on a watch of a different serial number to please “the internet experts”. He reportedly blessed it immediately as being a genuine “variant” and, tight with Rolex factory people he reportedly conferred with them – unofficially, of course – where it was also anointed as genuine. I contacted Europe’s foremost athouritry on Daytona and had it hand delivered to him. Saddled with a watch that was now deemed “fake”, I had two choices.
Which by most standards is not good methodoology.
In this case the auction house said “they had never seen one like this” and “this type of dial only came on watches with different serial numbers”. Often, in the collectable world, the loudest, firmest voice dictates whether something is counterfeit. “Well, the auction house says it’s fake,” he replied. “I bought it from the original owner and I examined it closely. So he called me up and said, “I need my money back. The buyer sent it to a very major auction house only to be told the dial was fake.
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Here he explains some of the most common pitfalls you’ll face when buying a pre-owned Rolex and shares some of his hard-earned tips on how to avoid getting duped.įour years ago, I bought a Daytona from a pilot and I sold it to a colleague for $80,000 USD. As CEO of Duber Time and owner of Old Northeast Jewellers and Hess Fine Auctions, he’s bought vintage Rolex for almost 40 years and is the co-author of Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Publishing). I/trending 12960 The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) Time+TideĮDITOR’S NOTE: Jeff Hess is one of the world authorities on Rolex.
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